How To Get Waves Without A Durag

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360 waves are also known as "360s," "waves," or "spinnas." This unique and captivating look was made famous by the rapper Nelly,^[1] and it's a popular look among African-American men. 360s make the hair look like it has waves, no matter what your natural texture might be. If you'd like to achieve this soft and handsome appearance, here are some suggestions.

1
Ensure that your hair and scalp are in good condition. The type of hair is not as much of an issue but the more prone your hair is to curling, the easier it is to create waves.^[2] If your hair is long enough to get curls, your hair will be long enough for waves. Make sure your hair is healthy so it will grow nice and long.
- If you have scalp problems, or are struggling with dandruff, remedy those problems before attempting waves with specialized scalp shampoo.
2
Visit the barber or a hairdresser to get a haircut. There are several possible cuts to get the style started:
- Get your hair cut with a ¹⁄₃ inch (0.8 cm) guard, with the grain.
- Have a razor style cut. This is a horizontal line at the bangs.
- Have a traditional "Caesar" cut.^[3]
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3
Purchase some supplies. From this point, you'll be tending your hair daily and the grooming requires tools. Things you might find handy to purchase include:
- A man's hand brush. This means a brush without a handle, that is designed to brush through long hair.^[4] This type of brush gives you the control needed.
- Wave shampoo and conditioner. This will provide softness to make training your hair easier. If you don't have wave conditioner, regular conditioner will work.
- Hair lotion. Lots of men use Luster's Pink lotion to add moisture to their hair. Other hair lotion can work as well.
- Pomade. Pomade will help fix your wave in place, down to your scalp.^[5]
- Nylon or Spandex du-rag or stocking cap. You want your du-rag to fit tightly over your head.^[6] This is needed to pin the hair down and for hair protection during sleep.
4
Be prepared to spend time on your hair. You will be "training" your hair, so this requires time and effort on your behalf to rearrange the hair daily. If you're good at watching TV or listening to the radio at the same time, you can find this a pleasant way to pass the time.
- All you are doing is lengthening out the natural curls in your hair, which then form waves. Think of your hair like a spring or a slinky that's wound up; when you unwind the slinky, it has a curve to it. That's all that you're going to be doing with your hair.
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1

Wash your hair with wave shampoo. There are commercial shampoos available that are specifically made for men aiming to create wave styles. If you don't want to use wave shampoo, you can use regular shampoo, or even soap. Getting waves is possible without special shampoo.
2
Develop a brushing routine. After you step out of the shower, having washed and conditioned your hair, apply lotion and pomade, just enough to cover your hair, and brush your hair down and out, starting from the crown of the head.
- You also want to brush your hair on top forward, toward your eyes, and brush the hair on your sides forward but downward, toward your chin.
- Starting from the crown, brush the hair on the back of your head down, toward your neck. Imagine there's a small circle on the crown of your head. Going all the way around the circle, brush outward radially the hairline until you get all the way around.
3

Brush evenly. Lots of guys say they only get the waves in front and not in back. What that means is that you haven't brushed your hair enough in the back. Use a mirror to check the back section and make sure they are styled the way you want. Natural curls tend to be strongest at the back of the head, so this area may need more attention.
4
Put the du-rag on your hair after brushing. This will help hold the wave in place. Make sure it's tight, but not too tight. Leave the du-rag on your head for at least 30 minutes.^[7]
- Remember to put the du-rag on before you go to sleep.
EXPERT TIP

Courtney Foster is a Licensed Cosmetologist, Certified Hair Loss Practitioner, and Cosmetology Educator based out of New York City. Courtney runs Courtney Foster Beauty, LLC and her work has been featured on The Wendy Williams Show, Good Morning America, The Today Show, The Late Show with David Letterman, and in East/West Magazine. She received her Cosmetology License from the State of New York after training at the Empire Beauty School - Manhattan.

Courtney Foster
Licensed Cosmetologist

Use the 'wolfing' technique to train your hair. For the wolfing technique, you need to grow out your hair before cutting it. Stop combing and styling your hair and allow it to become matted together. Keep the matted hair underneath a du-rag for a few weeks before you shave your hair to make 360 waves.

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1

Keep getting cuts. Remember to get your hair cut at least every 2 to 4 weeks, but keep your hair long enough so that curls can develop. Talk to your barber about what you've been doing and make sure your hair isn't cut "against the grain," as in against the direction you've been combing it.
2

Keep it moist. Keeping your hair hydrated is the secret to great-looking waves. The du-rag will help with this, so moisten it with water before you put it on. Keep yourself hydrated by drinking plenty of fluids.
3
Keep brushing your hair and putting on a du-rag/wave cap before sleeping. This protects your hair from rubbing against the pillow and pillowcase during the night, which could undo all your hard efforts.
- Brush your hair at least five times on each side at least three times a day. Brushing is what will tease your hair into place^[8]
- Don't wash but rinse your hair while you're developing your 360 waves. Rinse with warm water to help make your hair more pliable. Wash your hair weekly with wave shampoo and wave conditioner.
- You can also dampen a clean towel and microwave it for a few seconds. Wrap the warm towel around your hair for a few minutes to help soften your strands before you brush.
4
Complete the do. Your 360 wave should be complete after several months of brushing several times a day. It may be longer than you're accustomed to having it at this point, but that means your waves will be deeper.
- If you're having trouble getting the wave, you might need to brush more.
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Question

How do you use sportin' waves?

Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Licensed Cosmetologist

Expert Answer

You should warm the product in your hands and apply it to damp hair. Then use a brush to sculpt your hair into the desired style.
Question

What is a du-rag used for?

Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Licensed Cosmetologist

Expert Answer

It holds the hair in place and keeps it from being disturbed. It also keeps you from messing up your style by running your hands through it.
Question

What is the best way to get 360 waves?

Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Licensed Cosmetologist

Expert Answer

You need to brush your hair regularly to create the wave pattern. It is also helpful to wear a du-rag to keep the waves in place.
Question

How do you get waves without grease?

Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Licensed Cosmetologist

Expert Answer

You can get waves just from brushing but you may see some frizz, especially in the beginning. If you are worried about the grease being too heavy, you could try pomade.
Question

How often can you wash your hair with waves?

Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Licensed Cosmetologist

Expert Answer

You want to wash no more than once a week, but you can rinse your hair every day.
Question

Will I be able to get waves by only brushing and using hot water?

Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Licensed Cosmetologist

Expert Answer

You may be able to do this without a styling product, depending on your hair texture, but you are much more likely to get frizz. If you don't want to use a styling aid, wait at least 24 hours after shampooing to begin your brushing routine, and wet the hair with warm water.
Question

After wearing my wave cap for 30 minutes, should I brush again?

Always. Brushing is the main part to get waves and before you go to sleep brush your hair and put on your wave cap/du-rag.
Question

What if I don't see any progress?

You will have to be patient. Getting waves takes time. Just keep brushing, and you'll gradually start to see results.
Question

Why do I use a hot towel?

It penetrates the hair shaft and softens your hair so it's easier to condition your hair and for your scalp to absorb moisture.
Question

How do I get waves on my weak side?

By brushing it more. The weak sides may have no waves because you haven't paid enough brushing attention to it.

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If you use pomade, make sure to place a hot towel on to your head in order to allow the pomade to set deep into your hair.
The thicker your hair, the harder the brush, the softer or straighter your hair, the softer the brush.
When you first get your hair cut, use a soft brush because your scalp will be exposed. By the third week you can switch to a harder bristled brush.
Wear a wave cap or durag at night to protect your waves.
Even though the waving process seems hard, it's actually easy and simple. You must be prepared to spend some time on your every day. Never lose focus on what you've been trying to achieve. Remember to brush your hair every day consistently and keep it moisturized.
Don't wash your hair every day because it may cause a breakage in your wave pattern.
Don't wear your durag all of time (only when you're going to sleep) because to wear it longer will risk stripping the oils from your hair.
Don't get your haircut too light because that would cut off your wave progress and your connections will get messed up.
Make sure when you get your hair cut, tell your barber not to cut it too low; for it may "cut your waves out." Telling him/her to "cut it low, but keep it dark", or "take a little off the top" usually works best.
The more you brush the better the results and the longer you Wolf (brush more without getting a haircut) the deeper and more visible your Waves will be when you get that haircut. Eventually it will turn out just like you want if you repeat this process.

Things you'll need

Healthy hair
Wave shampoo and conditioner
A du-rag -or- wave cap
Hairbrush
Pomade (such as Murray's or 360 Waves or lusters)
Moisturizing lotion/leave in conditioner

About This Article

Article SummaryX

If you want to get 360 waves, wash your hair with wave shampoo and conditioner, then apply lotion and pomade to your hair as soon as you get out of the shower. Use a hand brush to brush your hair down on the front, sides, and back, then place a stocking cap securely over your hair to hold the wave in place. The cap should be tight, but not too tight, and you should leave it on for at least 30 minutes. Over time, your hair will form the waves easier as you train it. To learn more about the hair tools and products needed to create this look, read on!

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